Kenwood dishwasher fun (KDW12ST3A): door lock latch replacement

Well, it's been a few months since I last had my dishwasher apart. And then last week the door lock/latch began playing up. More precisely, after pulling the door open the mechanism in the door would re-lock itself. This meant the door couldn't be locked shut and the dishwasher wouldn't run.

The temporary solution was to remove the inner door skin, remove the lock/latch mechanism and reset it manually (using a screwdriver). To put that another way, I've managed to keep using the dishwasher but not without some faffing about. I therefore investigated a new lock/latch mechanism. If, like me, you're in the UK, a search for the part on Google will first bring up ebay and espares:

On ebay, a new mechanism is £22

Espares do them for £10 plus £6.99 P&P

On Amazon the part is a truly astonishing £30

Bearing in mind the nature of the part, my view was that even £17 is way over-priced. The P&P charges at espares are also ridiculous. And the sellers on ebay and Amazon were obviously just taking the piss. So I wondered whether I could get anything else to fit. After a few minutes research I happened upon this:

It's the door lock/latch mechanism for various Hotpoint, Indesit and Creda dishwashers (part number C00195887). Typical price is about £10 delivered however at Bartyspares on Amazon, the price was £5.48 delivered. Even though the overall shape of the part is different, the mechanism itself and the screw holes seemed to match the Kenwood part. The microswitch is also on the opposite side but I was confident that I could do something about that if I needed to. I ordered the part and it arrived today.

So, will it fit? First, the original lock/latch in situ:

Door skins separated. The lock/latch is held in place with two self-tapping screws. Two spade connectors to the micro switch need to be disconnected:

Here are the two parts for comparison purposes. They look significantly different but it is the placement of the screw holes that is important. They're the same!

New part goes on with no trouble. The only "modification" I had to do was to detach the two wires to the switch from the existing loom (by cutting the cable ties). There was then enough length in the wires to reach round to the micro switch which is now on the right-hand side. Here it is, job done :)

All working fine. The new mechanism comes with a new micro switch. For the record, here is a picture of the micro switch from the Kenwood part:

More soon, no doubt....

D

Update 12 October 2020: well, the replacement latch failed yesterday. I can't really complain so I just bought another. Bartyspares seems to have gone from Amazon so the new latch came from a different seller and cost me £10.65. Just fitted it now and all is well again. D.

Sime Ecomfort Plus - replacement diverter motor and cartridge

All I can say is this: The diverter motor and cartridge for the Sime Ecomfort Plus (Sime part numbers 6319620 and 6319625, respectively) are identical to:

• the motor which can be found on a Potterton Performa 24 (part number 720064401); and
• the cartridge on the Biasi Activa A Plus (part number BI1351109)

In each respect, the parts are made by a single manufacturer of boiler components. The only possible explanation is that Sime, Potterton, Biasi, etc, buy these parts off the shelf and then use them to make "their own" boilers.


The only difference is the price. 


Buying the Sime labelled parts (from ebay, for example) will come in at about £140.

Buying the alternatives that I have suggested comes in at less than £60 (ebay again).

My research shows that the price of these parts from several different plumbers merchants is correspondingly different (although far more expensive). This, then, is not just a quirk of ebay.

I'm sure you'll agree that "the trade" has a lot to fucking answer for.

More soon, no doubt...

D

Kids ride-on beetle: custom sound board (Adafruit Audio FX)

So, this is a project that I 99% completed last year. I finished the final 1% today when I removed one part that I'd added on a temporary basis and replaced it with something more permanent.

First - the car. It's a 12v (2 x 6v) ride-on car that we got for my boy last spring. Here's some advertising blurb:

You'll see that the car comes with sound effects (a starting-engine sound and a horn) and the facility to plug in an ipod or other mp3 player so as to play one's music through the car's speaker. My boy doesn't have an mp3 player but was extremely pleased with the engine/horn sounds until, after about a week of ownership, they stopped working. As it happens, the volume for the horns (or mp3 player, if plugged in) is controlled by the knob on the dashboard. The knob operates a potentiometer which is attached to a small board which is programmed with the sounds and operates the led lighting. I've highlighted the knob on this library picture. The display next to the knob shows the battery voltage:

Now, we could have sent the car back to the seller at this point however that would have meant denying my boy his new toy. It would also have meant taking the whole thing apart and shipping the lot back to the seller. I decided that I would fix it myself and to hell with the warranty.

My first attempt at fixing the sound simply involved replacing the volume pot:

 This made no difference and my attention turned to the sound/lights board. To be fair, I couldn't really make head nor tail of it. However, I could see that it was horribly soldered and so I set about looking for a replacement. In the end, I settled on the Adafruit Audio FX Sound Board. I chose this because it comes with a built in 2x2W amplifier (the car's speaker is 7w and actually sounds pretty good). The soundboard will play WAV or OGG files and can hold 16MB of data. Data is added via the on-board micro-usb port. More to the point, the board can cope with 11 triggers which meant that I could add more buttons and sounds :). Here's a link to the official site and the picture below is the blurb and board I bought:

Once the board arrived I needed some more gear. This was mainly switches and wire. I also added an led to mount in the car's dash so that it was possible to see when the board was switched on (the board actually has it's own led but its surface mounted and cannot be seen if, like in this project, the board is to be mounted out of site). I also bought a key and barrel so that my boy could pretend he had an ignition key. Finally, since the car runs at 12v and the board runs at 5.5v max, I bought a battery holder for 3 AA batteries. I would use this to power the board and keep it separate from the car's own wiring. I got everything from CPC:

One balmy Saturday evening I set to work. First, some more holes in the dashboard for the extra switches. I also retained the car's original switches. The first picture below shows the standard dashboard. I removed the volume pot and the jack for the mp3 player. I also cut everything that looked like it was connected to the audio side of things on the car's sound/lights board. I then drilled holes for the five extra buttons, and modified two existing holes for the key and new led:

I then set about making the loom for everything:

Unfortunately I didn't take many pictures of that but the basic premise is that the new key switches the power from the battery pack. This illuminates the new led and powers-up the board. We then have a total of seven switches controlling sound. The switches are basic on/off type. The way the board responds to the switches is determined by the names given to each sound file. So, some switches play one sound in full when pressed. Others play a sound on a loop until pressed again. And one only plays a sound as long as the switch is actually pressed. Clever stuff. Here's a bad picture of the finished article:

And here's a vid of all the buttons doing their stuff. I downloaded the sounds off the internet. I was particularly pleased with the engine start sound which really does seem to be a VW Beetle setting off!

So, that was last spring. Since then, we've been through about four sets of batteries. That's not so bad, but since I didn't want my boy to fiddle with the batteries, I'd mounted the holder behind the dash. This meant removing the dash each time the batteries went flat. This was always a pain in the ass which brings me to the final 1% of the project: removing the separate batteries and wiring the sound board into the car's power using mini step-down transformer:

You can get these all over the place but I ordered mine from FastTech because I happened to be ordering a load of ecig stuff at the time and FastTech were only charging £1.30 rather than £15 or so from a UK seller. Today I cut the transformer into the power circuit for the car's LEDs. The circuit runs at 12-14v and I set the transformer to step-down to 3.9v. The board will work with a supply as low as 3v but the volume is a bit lower at that rate:

Everything is now back together and working well. Hopefully I'll never need to take that dashboard off again...

The video above is from last summer.

More soon, no doubt....

D

Ford Mondeo ST24: fuel pump replacement

In an earlier post I lamented the absence of my car's towing-eye bolt or, more precisely, that I only discovered the bolt was missing when I actually needed a tow. The tow was necessary because my car's fuel pump had completely packed up, leaving me stranded. So, today I fitted a new pump. This post isn't intended to be a step-by-step guide but instead concentrates on the seemingly tricky task of disconnecting the fuel lines from the pump/sender unit module. It was apparent from a bit of research into this task that disconnecting the fuel lines was a most problematic matter. However I also found this video on YouTube which turned out to be the most helpful thing I've seen this year. Thank you, DJ Daniel! Now that I understood the principle, I had to adapt it seeing as there was only me available and three hands are required for the task. The photos below show how I used an 8mm spanner to precisely the same effect. Fuel lines came out a piece of piss. For me, the trickiest part was removing the old pump from the sender unit. Still, the whole job only took me about an hour and my big old turd of a car lives to see another day.

For the record, I got the replacement pump off ebay. It's a Magneti Marelli MAM00037 and cost me £28. The pump in the pictures below is the old pump.

More soon, no doubt....

D

Ford Mondeo ST24: towing conundrum

My car broke down the other day. The fuel pump has packed up. Weather permitting, I'll be fitting a new one over the weekend and no doubt there'll be some pics of that on this blog at some point. Anyway, the breakdown meant I needed a tow home. And since there was, to my horror, no towing eye bolt to be found in my car, I had to borrow one. Since ST24's are a bit thin on the ground, I was looking for a bolt from any MK2 Mondeo. I couldn't find one, but my brother did manage to cadge the two bolts in the picture below. The black one is from a 58 plate Fiesta. The other is from some sort of Vauxhall. Turns out that both fit the ST24. Just sayin' :)

More soon, no doubt....

D

ASUS X5EA (K51AE) - baked to perfection....

As with all posts on this blog, I'm typing this entry up on my trusty ASUS X5EA laptop. I've had this laptop for about 18 months, given to me for free by a friend who had upgraded. I think it's about six years old. Specification is ok or, at least, perfectly fine for my requirements. It's had some issues though and I've lost count of the number of times I've had to open it up and fiddle with something inside. One problem that I've never managed to resolve is with the boot-up. If the laptop is up and running, it will reboot without any issues. However, if it is shut down or allowed to go to sleep, it is a real pig to get going again. Indeed, the problem is such a pain in the ass that I've set it to never sleep and I have it running 24 hours a day. Of course, sometimes it does end up inadvertently being switched off and then I spend an hour or two trying to get it going again.

This was the position a couple of days ago however, try as I might, it simply would not start. On pressing the power button, the power LED would light up. The hard drive and DVD would power cycle and then nothing. It just sat there, seemingly not even reaching the BIOS stage. After two days of arsing about with it (including leaving the CMOS out for a day and leaving it in the freezer for 6 hours), I was ready to chuck it. Once that stage is reached, when all seems lost, I find that it is time to switch the oven on. Whilst the oven was warming up to 220c, I stripped the laptop down and removed the motherboard. I removed all the plastic parts and stickers, and covered delicate components such as capacitors and SATA ports with tin foil. I also ran some liquid no-clean flux under the GPU and Southbridge chips and around other areas where the existing solder looked a bit iffy. And then I baked the f*ck out of it (for 8 minutes). Re-assembly was straightforward using the photos I had taken when I was pulling it apart (see below). Started first time :)

I've no idea whether this is any sort of long-term solution. However, lappy is working and that's enough for me right now.

More soon, no doubt...

D

Parkside Cordless Multigrinder PFBS 9.6 A1 (Lidl) - overheat repair

I got this multi-grinder thing from Lidl about 18 months ago. I think I paid £20 for it.

It's ok, but I don't think it's anything like on a par with a Dremmel (which I intend to buy as soon as funds permit...). Anyway, I was using my multi-grinder the other night and to be fair, I was asking a lot of it (and, as things turned out, too much of it). I thought I was trimming some low-density fibre board but on closer inspection, it actually seemed to be some sort of laminate. Anyway, I'd started the cut so thought I'd persist with it. After about a minute at full chat the motor simply stopped. All the charge lights were still working but the unit was basically dead. There was also a fried-electrics smell in the air. I let the grinder cool down but it still didn't work. Naturally, I then took the grinder apart for a look:

The grinder is in two halves. Remove the five self-tapping screws, the end collet, and the wrist strap. Then break open but keep a hand or finger over the button for the spindle lock as there's a spring under there which will ping off if you're not careful...

With the grinder in half, one problem was immediately apparent. The (what I now know to be) motor speed controller (NCE50N06) had got so hot that the solder around it had melted and it had slipped off its pad!

That was a couple of weeks ago. Tonight I had a spare hour so I got my soldering station out and hit the chip with some hot air. It's solder melted (again) and I re-positioned the chip. I then re-soldered it and partially rebuilt the tool so I could stick the battery back in and test it. It worked!

So, it's now all back together and working fine. Easy!

More soon, no doubt...

D